2000 Accord I4 Clutch Repairs *Update!*

"Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again." (sir-stig) 08/05/2014 at 22:47 • Filed to: i did a thing

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So I have decided to replace my clutch myself. Problem is, I cant get my wheel assembly off due to (I think) rust.

You bastard.

I have removed the steering rack and top brace, but the bottom brace isn't budging. anyone have any advice? It's soaking in WD-40 right now, but I'm not sure what else to do.

Update:

Apparently my problem wasn't rust, just the fact that the bolt is tapered and gravity holds it snug. Pulling up on the caliper and banging on the arm popped both of them out nicely. Now to do the tricky parts...

HammerheadFistpunch > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 14:57

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You need a picklefork, do you have on? you can rent one if you need.

PS9 > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 14:58

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And if that doesn't do it;

Nibby > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 14:59

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Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > Nibby 08/04/2014 at 15:00

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Haha I've tried that, that's why the bolt is a little rounded...

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > HammerheadFistpunch 08/04/2014 at 15:01

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Hmm okay I'll have to try and find one.

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > PS9 08/04/2014 at 15:01

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I just don't want to crush the top of the bolt.

HammerheadFistpunch > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 15:03

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Oreily has them for rent with deposit only.

505Turbeaux > PS9 08/04/2014 at 15:03

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yeah if he doesnt have a picklefork I have smacked them with a sledge before and have them pop. On X300+ Jags I dont even bother with the fork, I always smack em

Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell. > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 15:04

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I used a smaller one of these once.

Best thing to use is probably a fork and hammer though.

Nibby > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 15:04

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Change blinker fluid is the next step.

JGrabowMSt > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 15:07

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PB Blaster. Shit works with magic as the key ingredient.

Spray on, tap a few times, and grab the breaker bar.

Takuro Spirit > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 15:13

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Hit the arm, man. The arm. The shock of doing so will (hopefully) break the rust holding it on.

jhd > HammerheadFistpunch 08/04/2014 at 15:27

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http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-in…

This will work better and cause less damage to ball joint. Make sure that you tighten the tool on there then wait a couple minutes and it will pop off. Overtighten it and you are gonna hurt yourself.

HammerheadFistpunch > jhd 08/04/2014 at 15:30

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either or, looks like a nice way to do it.

Trevor Slattery, ACTOR > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 15:34

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Next time back out the nut a little and THEN use the hammer. Never bash on exposed threads like that.

desertdog5051 > Nibby 08/04/2014 at 15:42

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These come in pneumatic or manual (hit with hammer) Rent cheaply at most auto parts stores.

MonkeePuzzle > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 16:01

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had the same issue on my 2000 civic, breaking this ball joint. hitting the side (not the bolt, the lower control arm itself) with a big hammer can free the ball joint.

or, putting a sacrificial nut on the bottom and beating on that, dont put the nut on all the way so you hurt the nut and not the bolt

MonkeePuzzle > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 16:02

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picklefork only as a last resort, it will tear up the boot (or at least did in my attempts).

I actually also borrowed a gear puller on the shop's advice, and it worked well too.

Bad Idea Hat > Takuro Spirit 08/04/2014 at 17:28

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See, this reminds me of the story someone once told about hitting one thing to break another thing free, only to have part 1 itself collapse in a cloud of rust.

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > Trevor Slattery, ACTOR 08/04/2014 at 19:12

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Ah that is a good idea. I wasn't hitting the threads, just the top part.

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > MonkeePuzzle 08/04/2014 at 19:13

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How exactly does one use that?

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > jhd 08/04/2014 at 19:14

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I'm in Canada, would princess auto have one?

Stef Schrader > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 20:39

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PB Blaster > WD-40 for this type of thing, IMHO.

MonkeePuzzle > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 21:20

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holding it upwards, the arms loop over the lower control arm and the threaded bolt would go against the bolt on the car. tightening the tools bolt will push the cars bolt up through the LCA

tc_corty > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/04/2014 at 22:00

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if you drenched it in some sort of lubricant, you'll have fun trying to tighten it back up without the "threaded part" spinning when turning the nut. Once you've got it separated, use some wax and grease remover or degreaser to get rid of the lubricant, then tighten :)

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > tc_corty 08/04/2014 at 22:31

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thanks for the tip!

tc_corty > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/05/2014 at 21:45

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Did you have a win in the end? I'd recommend if you are wanting to carry out more repairs yourself, buy a Gregory's or Haynes. They'll take you through the steps specific to the vehicle and show you the little tricks that are needed for a certain job or repair. Great, accurate reference tool. I use them all the time, it's good to know what needs to come off to get a job done without taking everything off. :)

http://www.haynes.com/products/produ…

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > tc_corty 08/05/2014 at 22:50

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I don't, might be something I get later on. Honestly once this clutch gets fixed I'm selling it, we don't need two vehicles right now. I am tempted to get the guide though, I should see whether they have info on replacing the clutch.

Nobi > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/05/2014 at 22:53

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Those Accords are so easy to do the clutch on. I just replaced one at work Saturday on a '97 wagon. Took me 5 hours. Granted, I had a lift and air tools, but you can definitely pull this off. Just remember to unplug the speed sensor on top of the transmission BEFORE you take it out. Don't ask me how I know.

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > Nobi 08/05/2014 at 22:55

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Good to know haha. I'm using Scotty Speed on youtube as my guide.

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > tc_corty 08/05/2014 at 23:04

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What sort of winch does one use for this type of stuff?

tc_corty > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/06/2014 at 02:49

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12500lbs one, preferably with synthetic rope, steel can get nasty without gloves..

Haha I'm not really following your question? Engine crane?

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > tc_corty 08/06/2014 at 09:38

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Oh I was just wondering whether a garage mounted one is better or if an engine hoist is the way to go.

tc_corty > Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. 08/07/2014 at 10:02

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I would grab a normal engine crane. Imagine a miniature tower crane on wheels. Although unless you're planning on pulling a few motors out I would rent on rather than buy, plus even folded up the crane will still take up a chunk of garage real estate.

If your cars lowered, there could be some difficulty getting the "front legs" under the car. Image search one and you'll see what I mean. I've NEVER worked on a front wheel drive, so take this really dodgey methods as a more last resort than a first plan. If you only need to take the weight of the motor n box. Perhaps theres a solid bit of metal, think bell housing etc, that you could put a jack under to take the weight. DONT jack it up from the sump. I've never worked on a FWD car so this part is all guesswork. To be honest the more I think about it, I doubt there would be a place to jack from. See if you can download that manual or buy one and it will show you the tricks and tips needed.

An engine crane is a much safer, leays chance to fuck it up way haha

Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again. > tc_corty 08/07/2014 at 11:10

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I will be working on the clutch that way, using the jack to support it. I'm hoping it goes smoothly but who knows.